Tree Maintenance in May

Time spent in your yard now will help ensure verdant growth in the summer months ahead. We continue with the spring clean up begun in April – see our diary for that month here. We outline several simple but key tasks in your garden for the month of May. As ever, timings may differ depending on your state and elevation etc as per the health warning at the end of these tree care suggestions.

Prune Flowering Trees in May

Prune trees that flower in spring after their blooms have ended. This will encourage flowering in subsequent seasons.

Early flowering trees that should be treated this way include forsythia, magnolia, dogwood, lilac and wisteria.

Those that flower in the summer such as crape myrtle should only be pruned in the winter months.

Prepare for a Bright Green Summer

The mulching plan we advocated in our Tree Care Diary for March should already be paying dividends by retaining moisture in the soil and reducing weeds. A major benefit will be to reduce the amount of watering your trees need when the weather gets hotter. Take the opportunity to check that the layer of mulch is maintained at around 3 inches deep. Also ensure that mulching material is kept away from the bottom of the tree trunk at grade. The tree’s root flare should always be open to the air. The root flare is where the bottom of the tree trunk flares out to the tree roots.

Check your tree mulch regularly to ensure that moisture-loving diseases such as canker do not take hold. And for that new tree which you planted as part of Arbor Day at the end of April, create a new mulching as advised in our March diary.

Alternative To Mulching

If you have chosen not to mulch, then you will need to:
1. Devise an alternative fertilization and irrigation plan for your tree – an expert can help here; and
2. Avoid using herbicides anywhere near the roots of your tree when trying to remove the weeds that would have been suppressed with a mulch; and
3. Avoid damage to trees when mowing your lawn.

Prepare for Stormy Weather

If you’re concerned about damage to your trees from the upcoming storms in Florida, there are means to reduce the damage from all but a direct hit. Firstly, your trees can be trimmed to reduce their wind resistance. Ideally, this should have been done in the winter but it’s still possible to do now with help from a professional. Secondly, your vulnerable trees can be braced or cabled. Again this must be completed by a trained and certified tree care expert.

Pesticide Control

Depending on the pest inspection you conducted in April (see our Tree Care Diary for April on Pest Inspection), it may be beneficial to apply a tree spray for the specific fungal or insect infestation that you or a qualified professional has identified. The timing of your spraying is crucial so as to avoid killing pollinating insects such as bees.

Generally, bees are active during the day, so the early evening will be the best time to spray at this time of year. And instead of automatically reaching for your spray gun consider natural pesticide remedies too. There are plenty of organic alternatives that are less harmful to your garden environment and all who live within it. We’re happy to tell you about them.

Florida Fruit Tree Care in May

The tree experts at the IFAS Extension of the University of Florida recommend the following:

1. Young Chestnut Trees (in 1st year of growth) – Apply two cups of 10.10.10 fertilizer per chestnut tree
   
2. Young Peach Trees/ Plum Trees and Nectarines (in 1st year of growth) – Spread half a cup of 12.4.8 fertilizer over the root zone of each young tree.
   
3. Slightly Older Peach Trees/ Plum Trees and Nectarines (in 2nd year of growth) – Fertilize each fruit tree of this age in May with two or three cups of 12.4.8 fertilizer.
   
4. Young Citrus Trees – If you have recently planted a citrus tree of any type then irrigation is vital at this time of year. The Citrus Research and Education Center of University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences recommend that your citrus tree must be watered two times a week between April and June. Use only a small volume of water for your small citrus trees (no more than one or two gallons per tree). During the rainy season, water the tree as needed. Keep an eye on them as wilting will damage root growth and tree development. And resist over-watering either.

More detailed information on citrus tree care from IFAS for Florida gardeners here: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/PP336

Consider calling a tree care professional to:

• Help with your recognition of tree disease and insects damaging your trees
• Guide you or carry out a pesticide spraying program
• Run your spring fertilization program
• Prune your spring flowering trees.

Call Tree Top Pros for any tree care issue you may have.

Kindly Note: The accuracy of this calendar and timings shared within it cannot be guaranteed. States in the USA are at different latitudes, longitudes and have varying elevations. This makes the general advice we give hard to fit all states the same. Compounding these differences are the type of tree species that vary between states. Furthermore, each state has its own weather patterns and levels of rainfall. All this calendar can do is broadly summarize best practice care for your trees. We therefore suggest that you consult your local arborist for more specific insights and advice relevant for your particular location.

Can’t I just stay inside where it’s nice and warm?

Well yes of-course. In fact, trees have survived millions of winters and are generally well-adapted to cooler winter conditions. Much is happening underneath the tree bark right now to ensure your trees preserve their energy for the growth spurt next spring and protect themselves during the harsher climate of winter. However, that pretty ornamental tree you bought from the nursery or that perfect shade tree may be growing on the raggedy edge of their hardiness zones. And most newly planted trees will benefit from some love and attention in your yard this December.

Our advice embraces both physics and sustainable organic solutions. We take into account what trees are already doing to protect themselves and what wildlife does in your yard in winter. By reinforcing helpful animal behaviors and reducing some negative ones, your trees stand a better chance of surviving this harshest of seasons.

Your tree has 5 main survival objectives in winter:

i). to reduce metabolic rates
ii). to preserve energy in the form of carbohydrates (sugars) gained from photosynthesis during summer and early fall.
iii). to increase water uptake
iv). to prepare for the growing season in Spring (bud production)
v). to protect against damage caused by the harsher and colder winter climate

What are the trees doing to look after themselves in winter?

Right now, in early December, your trees are moving fluids around, adjusting levels of metabolites, hormones, proline and lipids to achieve the 5 aims above. Their success will determine the health, growth rate and fruit production of the tree in the summer growing season. They even have their own version of antifreeze. And when the temperature drops even lower, trees have mechanisms to ensure that dangerous ice crystals do minimal damage to the tree’s living tissues.

What you can do to help?

Our advice for tree care this winter is necessarily generic to thousands of tree species across many different habitats, elevations, temperatures and soil conditions across USA.

So your job is to make it personal. Get to know your trees in your garden. What species are they? What care do they need at this time of year, if any? What is the condition of the trunk, branches, roots etc? Walk around them and look at them. Do you see any problems? Are there broken branches? Is the tree weeping or oozing fluids? Are there any holes small or large? Your observations will determine what’s best for your tree. Share what you see with your local arborist or with us at Tree Top Pros. We’ll advise you if action is required or if it’s best to leave well alone. There are also things that only we can see, soil tests we can conduct and invisible cavities we can detect.

Why bother?

Your trees are valuable to you aesthetically. Matures trees in good condition add up to $10,000 to the financial value of your home due to their landscape appeal. They make your community a better place to live. They host local wildlife and are very good for the wider environment we all share. Your trees are worth looking after this winter.

So mindful of your trees’ top 5 priorities, we shall focus on things you can do in your own yard. Most of your winter attention will go towards trees less than 3 years old or newly planted specimens.

Our best 11 tree care tips for the month of December

1. WATER  – Give your trees a drink. Droughts in winter can deny trees the water they seek at this time of the year. So occasional watering during the winter on young trees, in particular, is recommended. However, only irrigate your trees when soil and trees are cool – not frozen. Before any watering, use your finger and wiggle it around in the soil at the base of your tree. If there’s moisture there already, you can avoid additional watering. Be aware that waterlogged tree roots can drown the tree and kill it.

2. MULCH – If the ground isn’t already frozen, you can add a 3 inch layer of organic mulch around your tree. This will help retain water in the cold dry winds and reduce stress on the tree’s roots from temperature extremes. We covered mulching in our November Tree Care Diary but it’s not too late to do it in December assuming your yard is ice-free. Keep the mulch away from the tree’s root flare at grade otherwise you’ll do more harm than good.

3. PROTECT YOUR TREES FROM TREE PESTS – Insects that over-winter on trees can be killed by severe frosts and ice. But many survive. Begin preventive applications for leaf diseases. Apply dormant oil applications to limit pests during the growing season. Try and use only organic, bio-degradable products which cause less harm to bees and other important pollinators.

Better still, invite more birds into your yard. Birds have a voracious appetite for caterpillars, beetle larvae/ pupae and termites that prey on your trees so you’ll need them around in the spring and summer. Start now in winter by bribing them with nesting cover and bird-boxes, bird food, fat balls and a bird bath too.

This more detailed article from the Wildlife Farm Alliance says that: “The overwhelming majority of songbirds are beneficial during nesting season because they feed pest insects to their hungry nestlings.”

Source: https://d3n8a8pro7vhmx.cloudfront.net/wildfarmalliance/pages/337/attachments/original/1548794888/1WFA_Support_and_Manage_Birds-for_web.pdf?1548794888

Birds love moving water so install a small fountain for them too if you can stretch to it. As your yard becomes a haven for birds, they will reward you in spring and summer by scouring your trees for bugs when pests explode in numbers.

Attracting birds into your yard also works if you have fruit trees.

Source: https://orchardpeople.com/can-a-birdhouse-protect-your-fruit-trees-from-insect-infestation/

The trick for you is to enhance your yard habitat for birds that eat pests whilst making it less attractive for those birds that are likely to become pests themselves when fruits appear.

4. PRUNING – If your trees are small (less than 30 feet high), only trim away dead, broken or damaged branches in December. Leave structural pruning until late January or February.

And if you have oak trees or elms and they need attention, call your local arborist now for an appointment before the end of February. These species must only be pruned in the winter months of December, January and February. Note that some arborists get booked up early for large trees.

Back to your small trees, do not prune them if it means climbing a ladder; it’s just too dangerous. Working at elevation is always best left to the professionals. Improper tools or lack of tree knowledge can and does lead to deadly accidents. The Tree Care Industry of America (TCIA) reported more 211 casualties from tree-related incidents in 2018. Of these, 119 were deaths, most of whom were civilians. The best bet is to call in a professional arborist for the big jobs.

5. PROTECT FROM SUN – Protect those young trees you planted in fall. The sun on those bright cloudless days in winter will scald those exposed, young whips with thin bark. In bad cases, the sun will split and peel the bark of the young tree. This allows in pests and infection into the living structures beneath the bark. Use burlap to wrap the main stem from top to bottom. Remove the wrap in the Spring when leaves begin to shield the young tree’s trunk and branches from the sun’s rays.

6. PROTECT FROM BEING EATEN – Again we’re talking about protecting:

i). young whips/ saplings planted in the fall this year and the year before; and
ii) evergreen trees such as Green Arborvitae

Realize that they are both now food for deer, rabbits and mice. Deer damage alone now amounts to $2 billion every year, nationally. Deer can also attack pets and introduce disease-bearing ticks to your yard. Protect your trees by installing a simple flexible tree guard around each one. Biodegradable guards are better for the environment but plastic guards will do the job equally well.

Metal cloth (a type of wire mesh) can also be used. Ensure none of the tree guards you use come into contact with the tree at any point. Place 3 wooden or cane stakes around the young tree. Then wrap and secure the metal cloth around the stakes so it forms a protective triangle against bark nibblers.

You could also try applying deer and rabbit repellent to your trees. Make sure that any products you buy do no harm to pets and to the environment. Note that the repellents are best sprayed by a professional.
Remove the tree guards in spring. There’s much less danger from deer and rabbits when their more usual food sources return in abundance in springtime.

7. PROTECT FROM SALT and ICE MELTING PRODUCTS – Avoid dispensing rock salt or ice melts anywhere near your trees. Also avoid using large quantities on any sidewalks and parking areas in close proximity to trees or other landscape plants. This is because the sodium chloride in rock salt dehydrates the tree’s roots, needles and buds through osmotic action. If a mistake is made with rock salt, remove any visible salt from the base of the tree out to its drip line. Then water your tree to flush out the salt from the soil.
Keep large snow piles away from tree roots as much as possible as these will contain salt spray from road applications. If unavoidable, treat with fresh water after the piles have melted.

In future, opt for magnesium chloride-based melts instead. These are much better for your trees.

8. PROTECT AGAINST DESICCATION – Relative humidity halves approximately for every 20ºF drop in air temperature. This means that cold air can hold a lot less moisture than warm air. As a result, cold dry winds in winter can cause ‘winter burn’ damage to broadleaf evergreen trees such as rhododendrons, yew trees, boxwood and hollies. The damage is exacerbated if the soil is frozen as this compromises the tree’s ability to replace lost moisture from leaves from its roots.

Therefore, in late December consider spraying such trees with an anti-desiccant compound. Such materials form a barrier over leaf pores. This reduces water loss through transpiration yet is thin enough to allow the evergreen leaf to continue to breath.

The anti-desiccant works best if applied in late December and again late January. Again, choose products that are both biodegradable and organic. As a rule, anti-desiccants usually only work if sprayed within a specific temperature ‘window’ and if it doesn’t rain before drying.

9. PROTECT CITRUS TREES AGAINST FROST DAMAGE – Many varieties of citrus trees are vulnerable to frosts that creep into even the most southerly states some years. Much tree research in this area has been done as citrus groves are commercially important crops in states like Florida and California.

For home-owners, the advice is straightforward. If a freeze is expected, irrigate your citrus tree the day before. Water has a much higher heat capacity than dry soil. So moist soil is able to retain heat for longer and radiate it back to the tree at night when frost risk is highest.
Also rake back any mulch as soon as you hear of a high risk of frost in your area. Mulch will act as an insulator lowering the temperature of the tree at night. Removing the mulch allows the soil to warm the tree.

Additional pro-active steps are needed when sharp frosts are forecast. Wrap the central leader and other main branches of your citrus tree in layers of cloth from top to bottom. Take special care to protect the area on the trunk where the tree was grafted onto the root stock. As soon as frosts abate and warmth returns, remove the cloth.

10. PROTECT FROM SNOW DAMAGE – Multi-stemmed evergreen trees such as Juniper, Yew and Green Arborvitae are particularly susceptible to damage from heavy snowfall, says the University of Minnesota.
The remedy is simply to tie the main central branches together with any flexible and biodegradable material such as hemp twine. Remember to remove in the Spring otherwise it could damage the tree bark and lead to trunk deformities and restricted growth.

Where you see other trees suffer from heavy accumulations of snow, gently use a broom to brush the snow off with an upward sweep. Brushing downwards or shaking branches may cause them to snap off.

11. PROTECT YOUR TREES FROM ICE STORMS – Protection is not really possible because usually the whole tree is affected. Also, tree branches covered in hard ice are relatively brittle. So trying to shake ice off a tree limb could lead to the branch breaking/causing hidden damage. Tree branches flex and a sudden reduction of weight when ice is knocked off may cause damage to the tree’s vascular structures.

If the ice storm is bad and you notice some boughs are damaged, remove them with proper pruning techniques as soon as conditions allow. In most cases, the shape of the tree will return once the ice melts.
Cabling and bracing trees and their large branches are a way of reducing damage from expected, severe storms. This is specialist work only performed by trained arborists.

Please see our Tree Care Diary Disclaimer here. Despite our best efforts, our tree care advice cannot be applied ubiquitously for all regions and locations in the USA due to latitude, longitude and elevation differences. In case of doubt, always seek advice from your local certified arborist.

3 Tree Care Do’s and 3 Don’ts in November

1. DO think differently about tidying up those leaves this November

Look, we get it. Everyone with a lawn must cultivate it and nurture it to within an inch of its life to make it beautiful and even and green. Heck, some local community rules mandate that you keep your lawn tidy and cut. Whenever the fall drops a bunch of leaves on our lawns, we are conditioned to think we must rake, sweep, burn or blow them away without delay. But will grass give you shade in the summer and a wind break in winter? Will grass support a diverse range of wildlife apart from the occasional grazing herbivore that might wander into your yard? Will grass grow into an asset that could be worth $10,000 when mature? We doubt it.

Perhaps it’s time to prioritize your trees over your grass

Unless you feel absolutely compelled to present a perfect albeit somewhat artificial lawn landscape, we say don’t bother getting rid of fallen leaves this fall. With warm moist conditions still prevalent underground in November, worms are still very active and can remove many of the leaves for you. Fortunately, our National Wildlife Federation (NWF) agrees. They ask folk to reconsider how we respond to leaves on our grass this time round and in the future. NWF say that a bed of fallen leaves better resembles a forest floor. This serves to recycle decay nature’s bounty naturally and turn leaves back into nutrients for the soil in our yards. A layer of leaves also creates a micro-environment for various critters such as woodlice, thrips, earwigs, millipedes and earthworms that feed upon the leaf litter and break it down. Then fungi in the soil that have valuable symbiotic relationships with tree roots can then actively harness organic matter for future growth. Together, the critters and soil fungi help to recycle the leaves in a natural way. They liberate soluble and usable nutrients for the plants and trees that depend upon a healthy soil to survive. Leaves left on the ground can feed this positive cycle of life for the ultimate benefit of your tree.

Sometimes though, if leaves on a lawn are left in a thick layer, they can form unsightly bare patches in your grass over the winter period. So the NWF helpfully suggest that instead of removing the leaves entirely, gardeners could help accelerate the natural decomposition process by mowing the leaves in situ. In this way, leaves are turned into coin-sized pieces and mixed with cut grass when mown. This allows the grass to grow through and not die. It also gives the decomposition of the leaves a head start and more likely to be drawn down into the soil for consumption by earthworms, for example.

Alternatively, we suggest that, depending on your community or HOA regulations, you allow the leaves that are within the drip line of your tree at grade to decay naturally.

2. DO prepare your trees for the winter months

In some respects, a tough winter can help trees the following year by reducing numbers of harmful pests. That doesn’t mean that your trees to the ravages of inclement weather.

We agree that on the surface, your trees might look they’re in a state of suspended animation during the winter months. However, metabolism continues as they prepare to grow the following spring. This involves sap being moved around the tree between trunk, root system and branches.

The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) therefore recommends that you assist the tree’s fluid management process and reducing winter stresses by preparing your trees for cold weather in the following ways:

i). Mulching – yes our old favorite but only if it’s done the right way. If the area underneath your trees has been swept, burnt or blown clean of leaves this fall, then create a layer of composted material beneath it. Why mulch in fall? Primarily, because it’s because a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch will act as a blanket protecting the tree’s root system from the extremes of winter temperatures to come.

To mulch your tree properly, mark out a circular area beneath your tree that extends to its dripline. This is an imaginary area formed on the ground by the outer circumference of the tree’s above-ground canopy. Carefully remove any sod and turn the soil very gently. Be mindful that delicate tree roots may lie near the surface which must not be damaged. Spread no more than a 3 inch thick layer of organic matter out to as close as you can get to the natural drip line of the trees. Grass is a tough competitor for the tree’s roots, most of which lie within one or two feet below grade in a wide area. So removing the grass in this area will benefit your tree in the long run.

Mulching is a double-edged sword, however. On the one hand, mulching replicates the forest leaf litter which is continually being formed and broken down into usable nutrients. Recent arboricultural research shows that for young sapling trees, proper mulching can accelerate root development by 400%. This, in turn, leads to increasing the rate of growth by 20% each year. That’s a lot of tree!

Yet, on the other hand, mulching can suffocate a tree if the layer is too thick in two ways:
a). Over-mulching can prevent oxygen from reaching the roots which is needed for the roots’ metabolism, proper functioning and root growth; and
b). Mulch piled up against the tree trunk can irreparably damage the tree as it compromises a very sensitive area of the tree called the root flare. This is located at the bottom of a tree’s trunk and is where the trunk begins to flare out into the root system. It must never be covered by damp organic matter like mulch.

So ensure that you have no more than a 3 inch layer of mulch around your trees and keep this layer at least 4 inches AWAY from the root flare. Your tree’s root flare must always be visible above grade.

ii). Water your trees especially when they’re young and lack the reserves and root system of mature examples. Droughts occur in winter as well as summer. An occasional soaking when it’s not freezing will help your trees endure periods of little rainfall.

Some of the trees you have planted MAY be on the raggedy edge of what your local Hardiness Zone can support. For example, if your tree is rated for a Zone of 8 and your location is at a cooler zone 5 or 6 , they may be susceptible to unexpectedly low temperatures and damage called winterburn or sun scald. Conifers are among those tree species affected. Here, the needles turn brown and the tree looks dead. In extreme cases, it may have to be replaced.

The preventative solutions include deep watering before the ground becomes frozen. Application of ant-dessicants in certain situations could also help reduce the needles from drying out and becoming damaged. You should consult your local arborist regarding the latter option.

iii). Reduce risk of mechanical damage – Snow shovels and snow ploughs used near trees can harm them if accidentally clipped. If your yard is near to woods and wild animals then deer and other creatures can rub up against and/or nibble away at the bark. Use a flexible tree guard to prevent such damage especially on younger trees.

3. DO inspect your trees for pests

Infestation by spruce spider mites on conifers earlier in the fall can lead to a bronzing or rust discoloration of pine needles. This happens especially if the trees are stressed. Increase the tree’s resilience to such pests by watering as already advised. Spruce mites overwinter by laying small orange eggs in and on the needles and branch. Mites can also be dislodged with a jet of water but avoid this if the weather is freezing. In addition, we recommend organic pesticides such as horticultural oil or insecticidal soaps to keep mites in check over winter.

More on organic tree pest control in winter next month (December)

4. DON’T fertilize your tree in fall

Trees can’t utilize winter fertilizers as a rule as their metabolism has slowed right down. The fertilizer will either leach away with winter rains or burn the roots if it’s un-seasonally dry. The ideal way is to replicate nature by reproducing the forest floor by way of mulching.

5. DON’T apply lawn fertilizer

Avoid spreading chemicals to the area of grass underneath your trees for similar reasons outlined in point 4.

6. DON’T prune your trees in the fall

Fall is the worst time of year to trim your trees, despite what some experts say. At this time of year, the tree normally directs sap to the roots where they can still grow underground in preparation for next season.  Normally, pruning encourages new growth above ground because the tree is attempting to compensate for the unexpected loss of part of its canopy. So pruning in the fall forces the tree to surrender its sap back to the branches to aid growth. This new growth is spectacularly vulnerable to the first hard frost. And sap-laden branches can split when from the same forces that burst water pipes.

Just because over-zealous neighbors are pruning their trees the moment all the leaves have descended, does not mean you should follow their example. The trees want to go dormant as temperatures cool and daylight shortens; so we recommend that you don’t send your trees in the other direction by pruning in the fall.

There is an exception to the ‘no pruning in fall’ rule. Trimming of branches that are already dead and which may be in danger of falling during winter storms can take place for safety reasons. BUT if the dead branch needs a ladder to reach it then leave well alone until a professional tree trimming company like Tree Top Pros can help you. The dangers of well-intentioned amateurs using dangerous cutting equipment at height are too profound to mention.

We shall remind readers when it’s best to prune their trees, an activity to be reserved for mid-winter to early spring in our humble view.
Please see our Tree Care Diary Disclaimer here. Despite our best efforts, our tree care advice cannot be applied ubiquitously for all regions and locations in the USA due to latitude, longitude and elevation differences. In case of doubt, always seek advice from your local certified arborist.

However, bare root trees are also a viable option for planting. Bare root trees are often sold in smaller calipers only i.e. generally less than 2 inches in diameter. This is because the failure rate of transplanting trees with a caliper greater than 2 inches is often too high. The stresses placed on a tree during transplantation are significant and are best borne by smaller caliper trees.

What do calipers have to do with anything?

Caliper refers to the diameter of a tree’s trunk at a specific height above the soil or above its root flare. This is often done in the context of nursery trees. Such measurements are taken on small trees at 6 inches above grade. However, if the tree’s caliper is more than 4 inches, its diameter is then measured at one foot above the ground. Such measurements are precise and form a United States national standard to which all respectable tree nurseries adhere.

When is the best time of year to plant a bare root tree?

We firmly believe that October to mid-November is the best time of year to plant any tree, for most latitudes in USA. There remains some warmth in the soil so fragile young roots can develop and establish before less benign much cooler weather arrives in December. There is also great availability of new bare root planting stock being created by nurseries in October. If you choose a fall planting time then get your new tree into the ground well before the first frost is forecast.  
Alternatively, springtime is another planting window. However, in spring, more water is needed as the weather is rapidly warming. So if you choose spring you need to be extra vigilant with your new tree. This is another reason why we favor fall as the best time for tree planting. It’ll give your tree a fantastic head start over those planted next year.

4 main advantages with planting bare-root trees:

1. LESS EXPENSIVE – Bare root trees are cheaper to purchase than the same-sized equivalent which has been burlapped. In fact, you can often buy 3 bare root trees for every one B&B tree although the normal saving is around 50%.

2. INCREASED RATES OF SURVIVAL – These trees come with twice as many roots than B&B trees. This helps with reducing post-planting shock so long as the bare roots do not dry out at the nursery or during delivery.

3. GROW QUICKER – Bare root trees are more likely to grow more quickly outside its planting hole. This is because the roots of burlapped trees tend to circle more readily within the clump of soil it came with.

4. MORE VARIETY – As they weigh less and so are easy and less costly to transport, a wider selection of tree species can be found online and via mail order sources. However, just because you CAN buy that exotic, eye-catching tropical tree seedling online doesn’t mean that you SHOULD. Remember: RIGHT TREE RIGHT PLACE. The information contained within our shade tree planting guide in our Tree Care Diary for October (link) still applies. It will help you choose the right shade tree species for your yard and plant it in the right place.    

3 disadvantages with bare root tree stock:

    
1. DESSICATION RISK – Bare roots tend to dry out faster, of-course. If this aspect is not adequately addressed, it severely compromises the chances of the young tree to survive and flourish.

2. EVERGREEN TREES – The survival rates for some evergreen tree types are not great when planted this way. Suggest that you quiz your local nursery for advice. They may steer you towards the Ball & Burlapped option.

3. GIRDLING ROOTS – Some deciduous tree species like red maple and poplar trees are prone to girdling roots and need special handling. The following planting tips, if followed, will help with these trees too. Again, check with your nursery or local arborist for advice and information.

Tree planting equipment you’ll need

1. Your newly purchased and delivered bare-root tree
2. Long-handled spade (a shovel is too big)
3. Watering can or hose
4. Bucket
5. Small amount of peat (for clay soils only)
6. Gloves
7. Chicken wire (if your tree is exposed to critters, pets and deer) or a plastic tree guard

How to plant a bare-root tree

1. Planting Location – We recommend that this is addressed BEFORE ordering and certainly before you take delivery of your tree. This is because the method we described before to discover the location of underground utility lines in your yard takes a couple of working days. Please refer to our October Tree Care Diary, in this respect. Nothing a growing tree likes more than to delve into a nice moist sewer or drainage line… and destroy it in the process.

2. Delivery of your tree – this can come boxed with roots wrapped in plastic wrapping containing pine tree wood chips or other organic matter such as sawdust. In fact, Arbor Day Foundation’s trees have their roots treated with hydrogel. This is a hydrating gel to stop the roots from drying out. This special treatment is even applied to the 10 free trees you get when you sign up!
Don’t expect a mini tree to be delivered. Expect to see a large stick with a spindly branch or two with some tentacle-like roots bereft of soil. It’s OK, all bare-root trees look like this. Just remember that you can look forward to the four advantages of bare-root trees as mentioned above…IF they’re planted properly.

3. Speed of planting – aim to get your new tree in the ground as quickly as possible, ideally within a day of delivery. You could wait a bit longer if the weather is cool but the roots must be kept moist even with wet newspaper or damp composted material.

4. Prepare your tree – Unpack your tree and carefully measure the breadth of its roots. You’ll need the spread diameter for the next step. 2 hours before planting, soak the bare roots of your tree for 2 to 3 hours in tepid, clean water in a bucket. This will rehydrate those fine roots which may have dried out somewhat in the nursery or during delivery. Don’t kill the tree by leaving it water-logged for longer than a morning or afternoon. No need to prune back any of the roots unless obviously damaged. The rate of growth of your new tree next season will depend on the health and quantity of its roots.

5. Dig your hole – You’ll need to remove grass and roots from a circular area at least 3 times the diameter of the tree’s roots when spread out. Grass is a tough competitor for young trees. It robs them of water, nutrients and oxygen. Then hollow out the exposed earth to form a shallow saucer shape.
Warning – Deep, vertical planting holes are yesterday’s news and will deter tree growth. This is because the roots will find it difficult to breach the abrupt transition into the surrounding soil. Augers are great for setting fence posts but not for trees so we suggest that you keep it in your shed. Latest arboriculture research from Colorado State University shows that a saucer-like shape is best to help the roots’ lateral spread.

6. Build a mound in your hole – You’ll need to form a mound of soil which we call a soil cone in the illustration at the head of this article. Your soil cone will support the tree and help provide a base to gently untangle the roots and spread them out evenly. The top of the ‘cone’ will sit slightly below grade.

7. Plant! – Mount your tree on the soil cone and gently tease out the roots on the soil cone. Cover the roots with the dug soil. Tamp down gently to remove any air pockets in the soil. This will 

help to maximize root/soil contact. Ensure that the root flare of your new tree rests above grade when planted. This is very important for the future health of your tree.
Keep some soil by to allow for the ground settling after watering – see stage 11 (below).

8. Do not fertilize! – Our 14-step planting method will help your tree get used to its new soil environment as quickly as possible. Its chances of  flourishing into a fine specimen will rise in proportion to the rate of growth of the roots into the surrounding ground. For this reason we do not advocate that the soil is amended with organic or inorganic matter such as compost or fertilizers. There is a real risk that the roots will prefer to remain within the artificially benign environment you have created in a treated and modified planting hole. Remember we want to avoid roots circling (or girdling) the root ball. Instead, we want the roots to spread out in search of the nutrients and water it needs.

9. Treating clay soils – If, however, your soil is of a heavy clay type we suggest the following:

i). Add well-rotted or composted organic matter or peat into the planting hole at a ratio of no more than one-fifth organic to one measure of clay. The peat will help you to break up the heavy clay clumps. This will aid the tree’s roots when growing into the surrounding heavy soil.
ii) To help avoid girdling roots in treated clay planting holes, we advocate digging a wider planting hole to assist with root development i.e. at least 4 times the size of the bare roots when spread.

10. Water – Remember this is late October/ early November so your tree will have no leaves. It will not be transpiring and so its demands for water will be light. The aim of watering here is to help settle the soil near to the roots to maximize soil/root contact. So only water sparingly. After that check your soil every week or so after planting and if moist, do not add additional water. Otherwise, there is a risk of water-logging the roots and so starving the tree of oxygen. This is to be avoided, of-course.
If you are reading this article during the spring, then the weather could possibly be dryer. In which case, check moisture levels in the soil near to the roots every week during the growing season. Water only when necessary to avoid water logging, a tree killer.
When watering, we find its best to keep the trunk and root flare dry. Instead, water the surrounding planting area out to the expected dripline. This will reduce water-logging in one area and discourage girdling roots. It will also encourage the roots to grow out to where the moisture lies.

11. Check soil depth – after applying water to the planting area, check soil depth. Add more soil accordingly to account for any settling. Tamp in gently with the back of your spade.

12. Mulch – Mulching your tree has 4 principal benefits:
i). In fall, it helps to preserve warmth in the ground thus promoting root development and helping your tree get established more quickly.
ii). In winter, it protects the roots under an insulating blanket and reduces the chance of frost damage.
iii). Mulching will also help to regulate the moisture level in your soil by reducing evaporation when it’s dry.
iv). In time, the organic mulch layer will decompose and liberate nutrients which a growing tree can absorb to reach its full potential.
Together these four layered benefits have been shown to accelerate the growth of fine root hairs by no less than 400% by the arboricultural boffins at Colorado State University. This in turn, leads to your tree growing by an extra 20% in height and breadth every growing season; very useful when trying to raise a shade tree.
Apply a layer of mulch no more than 3 inches thick across the whole planting hole except the trunk area.
BEWARE! Dangers lurk in the mulch!! Volcano mulching where the material is piled up the trunk of the tree can and will harm your tree. The root flare, where the bottom of the trunk widens to the start of the root system, needs to be both above grade and also free of mulch. Keep material at least two inches away from the flare at all times. Check this regularly as garden birds and rodents will pick over the mulch layer in search of bugs and critters. They flick out mulch particles in all directions so keep a watch on your new tree. It only takes a couple of minutes to move any material away from the root flare again.

13. Staking – We recommend this only for very windy areas. Avoid the stake rubbing against the tree at all times. And adjust your ties from stake to tree regularly. Use stretchable ties only so that they don’t constrict the trunk’s growth over time.

14. Tree guards – If you will be planting in an area populated by small animals, deer or pets than place some chicken wire around your tree for its protection. Leave plenty of space between wire and tree. If the risk from animals is slight, use a flexible and ventilated plastic tree guard to protect the young tree against mechanical damage during its first year of growth and beyond if it’s planted in a high-traffic area.

More information available from:
– The Bare Root Method (of tree planting) by Cornell University, Ithaca, NY:
http://www.hort.cornell.edu/uhi/outreach/pdfs/bareroot.pdf  
– The Science of Planting Trees by Colorado State University
https://static.colostate.edu/client-files/csfs/pdfs/633.pdf

Please see our Tree Care Diary Disclaimer here. Despite our best efforts, our tree care advice cannot be relied upon by everyone in USA, in all locations, all the time. 

Quick reprise of Part 1 and Part 2 shade tree articles in August & September

August – Planning for a new shade tree now – We talked about the significant benefit of shade trees as they grow into a green asset and as they shade your property in the summer months. Arbor Day Foundation confirms that shade trees can cut summer cooling bills by as much as 40%. If you read and acted upon the information shared in August, you will now have a clear idea of where new shade trees might have the maximum cooling impact in your yard in the hottest summer months.

September – Choosing a new shade tree for your yard – We went into some considerable detail into choosing the right shade tree for your yard in your particular hardiness or growing zone in USA. We highlighted our top 25 shade trees with a bias towards both fast-growing and native tree species. We also included a list of our favorite ten shade trees for Florida because residents there spend 4 times on energy bills for cooling on average than the rest of the country. We also included a tool list for tree planting so that you’re well-prepared for this moment. So you should have a planting site in mind, the right tools and your new shade tree. Let’s get planting!

October Tree Planting

This is a fantastic month for planting trees. The ground is still warm which promotes tree root development. Furthermore, top growth is limited as the days shorten. This helps the tree become better established over the winter months. In this way, planting now will give your trees a great head start over those planted next spring. They will need less if any watering over the wetter winter months too.

Many young trees and seedlings experience ‘tree planting shock’ when moved. We see this every week when asked to remove trees that either shouldn’t be in that location to start with or that have been badly planted. The planting advice below has three main benefits:
i). Increase the survivability of your newly planted tree; and
ii). Reduce the tree’s underground strangulation from its own girdling roots; and
iii) Increase rates of growth in the future years by 20% or more.

Above all, we want to help you benefit from that shade as soon as possible.

Follow these 12 steps to give your shade tree the best possible start in your yard.

One Dozen Steps to Tree Planting Nirvana

1. THREE ESSENTIAL PRE-PLANTING CHECKS i). Check you have the right tools to hand – see September Tree Care Diary here for a list.
   ii) Check the soil test results using the simple kit you purchased. Use to make sure your desired tree has the right growing conditions by matching its needs with the soil in your yard. Purchase any necessary soil modifiers if your soil is deficient in one or two specific nutrients.
   iii) Check that your intended planting site matches with the ideal location for a shade tree established in August – see our August Diary here for a full guide. If you missed this, the general advice is two shade trees for the south side of your home and one for the west side for the maximum shade and cooling effect.
2. PROTECT YOUR HOME’S FOUNDATIONS – Check that your intended shade tree planting site is at a sufficient distance from your property so as to avoid damaging your home’s foundations in the future. Here’s the table again for ease of reference:
   

   Height of your Tree at Maturity	Minimum Distance from your Building Wall	Minimum Distance from your Building Corner
   Short Tree        (i.e. less than 25 ft)	10 ft	8 ft
   Average Tree  (i.e. 25 to 40 ft)	15 ft	12 ft
   Tall Tree           (i.e. 40 ft plus)	20 ft	15 ft

3. AVOID FUTURE DAMAGE TO UTILITY LINES AND DRAINS – You need to find out where your utilities lie in your yard and adjust your planting spot accordingly. Tree roots can easily invade clay drain pipes in their search for moisture. Call 811 or 1-800-dig-right (in some States) before you start. These services are freely available to everyone. Call them two working days or more before planting. And don’t make the mistake of planting near overhead power lines as shade trees grow tall, especially the way we plant them!
4. FIND THE TREE’S ROOT FLARE – Remove any burlap covering from the upper surface of the root ball (no need to remove it all just yet). With a knitting needle or screwdriver, gently probe where the roots begin to flare out from the bottom of the tree trunk. Remove excess soil down to this point as this flare must not be covered with soil under any circumstances after planting. Measure where the roots begin (at the root flare) down to the bottom of the root ball. Use this measure to determine the depth of the planting hole from grade and make sure you dig no deeper.
   

   Diagram of ideal saucer-shaped tree-planting hole.

5. DIG THE HOLE THE RIGHT WAY – Dig a broad, shallow hole shaped like a saucer at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball. The depth of the hole will be that measured in point 4. (above).

   Making a wide, shallow hole will help:
   – roots grow faster into the surrounding soil beyond the planting hole
   – keep the root flare above grade where it should be
   – reduce the tendency of the roots to girdle the root ball

   Deep, vertical planting holes are not recommended. Horticultural researchers from Colorado State University say they must be avoided. This is because roots find it difficult to spread out into the soil beyond the near vertical wall of deep tree planting holes.
   
   Shovel soil onto tarps to protect surrounding grass. Loosen the soil a little in the shallow sides of the hole so that roots can penetrate the surrounding undisturbed and compacted soil more easily in the months and years ahead.
   
   If you have time, till the soil beyond the rim of the planting hole as this will further help the lateral development of roots and accelerate the growth rate of your tree in the future.

6. PREPARE TREE AND ROOT BALL FOR PLANTING – If the tree’s roots are covered in burlap or encased in a pot, carefully remove your young tree from either container. Always lift the tree out by the roots if you can and never by the trunk alone. Gently tease out the exterior roots from the soil it came with. A three-tine cultivator is great for this purpose.

   Watch out for any girdling roots. Why? because roots which have circled the root ball can expand and constrict the tree’s growth in the future. So loosen and straighten these out as best you can. Even remove if necessary. Retaining the burlap wrapping around the root ball will exacerbate the problem of girdling roots. So remove all burlap before planting.

   To illustrate the severity of this problem, the roots of this storm-damaged tree are helpfully examined by Mr. Dustin Dailey of Dailey Tree Care from Murfreesboro, Tennessee. We share his video with his kind permission. Dustin strongly suspects the planter’s non-removal of burlap wrapping as the main reason for this mature tree’s catastrophic failure!
7. PREPARE BACK-FILL SOIL – Ensure large clumps are broken up to no more than fist-sized. Mix in any well-rotted organic material but no more than one fifth of the back-fill volume. Add soil modifiers as determined by your soil test earlier. Aside from correcting some mineral deficiencies found from the soil test, there is no need to mix in general fertilizer at this stage – that can wait unto the following spring.

8. PLACE TREE IN HOLE ENSURING ROOT FLARE IS EXPOSED – Place the tree in the hole at the proper height so that the root flare is slightly above grade and is visible after the tree has been planted. You’ll need someone to hold the tree straight for a few minutes while you fill in the hole.

9. FILL IN THE HOLE – Straighten your tree in the hole before back-filling with the dug soil. Once the hole is half-filled, water thoroughly to settle the soil and remove air pockets. After the water has drained away, fill in the rest of the hole and tamp down lightly but not with your feet. Stake the tree if it’s likely to be exposed to the wind. Use rubber ties that can expand with the tree as it grows and that allow the tree to move a little.

10. MULCHING – Mulch with no more than two to three inches of mulching material over the planting area. Research shows that for trees which are newly planted, mulching with organic material can increase the rate at which a young tree’s fine roots develop by 400% as they’re no longer having to compete with grass roots. As a result, the tree’s canopy growth rate climbs by an additional 20%!
    
    CARE – Avoid volcano mulching. Remove any mulch which is stacked against the trunk so the root flare remains visible and open to the air.

    

11. WATERING – If you have followed these last three Tree Care Diary articles, you will have chosen a
    native shade tree species that’s suited for the climate in your zip code. In the long run this will reduce its dependency on watering. Nevertheless, your newly planted tree will still need some watering support to help get the roots established before winter sets in and dormancy returns. The aim of watering is not to kill your tree through oxygen starvation caused by water-logged soil nor by causing a mini drought in your planting hole from under-watering.
    Water your new tree every day thoroughly at a trickle for at least an hour at a time. The moisture must penetrate into the root ball. In the second week reduce to watering every other day or more if the weather is dry. Continue to water twice a week until, say, towards the end of November and less frequently in wet weather, of-course. Avoid over-watering as this is a common cause of tree failure – yellowing leaves can be an early indicator of water-logged soil around the roots. Your young tree will benefit from regular checks and attention.
    For species-specific watering advice ask the tree nursery from whence the tree came.
    We also recommend that you check your soil’s moisture level between watering by inserting a garden trowel into the ground down to 3 inches below the surface (starting beneath the mulch layer) of the planting hole just to the side of the root ball. Create a small trench to this depth and use your finger to touch the soil at the bottom. If the soil is moist at the bottom, your tree will not need additional water.
12. ADD A TREE GUARD – Finally, add a flexible, breathable tree guard to the base of the trunk to protect it against damage from mowers, weed trimmers, critters and the weather. The guard can be removed after two years or when the trunk reaches 3 to 4 inches in diameter.

For a more detailed explanation of some of these planting steps including the planting of ‘bare-root’ young trees, we refer you to “The Science of Planting Trees” by Colorado State University available here:  https://static.colostate.edu/client-files/csfs/pdfs/633.pdf

Please see our Tree Care Diary Disclaimer here. Despite our best efforts, our tree care advice cannot be relied upon by everyone in USA, in all locations, all the time. 

Who is this Diary advice for?

It’s for property owners in USA who want to care for their trees on their land. Mature trees can add around 10% to the value of your property say the USDA Forest Service BUT only if they are kept in good condition, say Moneysense. A little care and attention for your trees now will help your trees look beautiful. Your efforts will also pay handsomely in terms of your property’s appraised value over time as your trees grow and flourish.

If you have any questions about any of the advice offered here, please seek the advice of your local arborist. Call Tree Top Pros and talk to an expert in your city. See the Locations menu tab to find them in your city (currently in Florida).

Continuing the tree planting theme from August

Our Diary for August talked about the considerable cooling benefits of shade trees. Arbor Day Foundation confirms between 10% and 40% of your summer cooling bills could be slashed with a shade tree or two. We suggested using the sun’s position in early August to determine the best position to plant a shade tree in your yard. Alternatively, we recommended two shade trees to the South of your property and one to the West for shade and cooling benefits.

As we are now approaching one of two ideal ‘tree planting windows’ in the year, it’s a good opportunity to think about which shade tree is best for your yard.

Depending where you are in USA, the weather is beginning to cool and the ground becomes more moist with the return of rains. Generally speaking mid-September to late October gives us 6 good weeks to plant trees because the hot days of summer are no more and yet the ground is still warm. These are ideal conditions for tree root growth. Planting a tree in these weeks will give your young tree a chance to establish itself and give it a great head start over those planted in the Spring of next year.

Follow these 10 steps to choosing the right shade tree:

1. Choosing the right spot to plant your shade tree

You should have already done this. Read our August Tree care Diary for guidance. We can refine the exact planting location later – we’ll tell you how. In anticipation of planting, map out where utility lines, underground and over-ground power cables lie on your property. Keep your tree well away from these lines.
 
This guide shows how far away your shade tree must be from your building to ensure its roots do not invade and damage your home’s foundations:

2. What is your hardiness zone?

This is a very important factor when choosing any tree to grow in your location. A hardiness zone is a specific geographical area which reflects a range of climate conditions relevant to your tree’s survival and growth needs. The map uses average annual lowest temperatures in wintertime. These are then divided into 10 degree Fahrenheit zones.

Thankfully, USDA Agricultural Research Service has made it super easy to find your hardiness zone. Simply punch in your zip code into the box in the top left hand corner of their interactive map page here:  

http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/ 

The answer will then appear underneath the ZIP code box. This will be the zone that applies to your precise zip code. Make a note of this growing zone because it will help you choose the right shade tree for your yard.

3. Go Native! Choose a native tree for your area.

Why? Because the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) reports that residential outdoor water use across the United States amounts to approximately 9 billion gallons of water every single day. The vast majority of this is for domestic landscape irrigation.

That’s an enormous amount of water. This might be sustainable were it not for the fact that 40 out of 50 States are predicting water shortages in the next 10 years. So with your tree having a potential lifespan of 100 years or more, it makes sense to account for future conditions when water won’t be so plentiful. You surely don’t want that leafy water-hungry tree you’re planning to plant now costing you a fortune in water in the years ahead.

So we believe that choosing native trees will help you here in the long run. We recommend prioritizing the planting of tree species which are both native to USA and also your State and location. A native tree suitable for your hardiness zone will already be acclimatized to your local growing conditions and is likely to need less watering than after the initial year or two.

With this in mind we have selected a list of 25 beautiful native shade trees from which you can begin to make your choice. The list of 25 also includes 10 just for Florida as this is where most of our offices and customers are based currently. The lists are created in MS Excel so you can sort according to tree height at maturity or at 3 years or by hardiness zone etc. Download the file if you wish from the links beneath the video.

Our top 10 shade trees for Florida are all beautiful trees that we’ve showcased in a short video:

The first FREE download includes all 25 shade tree candidates for USA. It includes many of the shade trees recommended by the Arbor Day Foundation together with some of our own preferences based on growth rate, strength of wood and wind tolerance factors etc.:   Download Link Top 25 USA Shade Trees

The second FREE download relates to just those shade trees suitable for Florida:  Download Link Top 10 Florida shade trees

4. Expand the list of candidates for your county or city

Help is at hand if you want a larger list of candidate trees. Some environmentally conscious county administrations will have recommended a list of native or protected tree species on their websites. They do this to reduce the number of invasive tree species that do not complement the local environment or have proved to be a nuisance locally. These county lists are excellent for additional ideas.

To find these lists for your location, simply type into your internet search engine:

  (your county name)+approved+tree+list       e.g. Hillsborough County+approved+tree+list

             or

  (your county name)+recommended+tree+list   e.g. Hillsborough County+recommended+tree+list

For example, Hillsborough County in Florida lists some 20 species of shade trees suitable for planting in this particular county. Five of these already feature on our own list for Florida. So a search in this case will liberate 15 additional shade tree options for you.

Add in the relevant information about your expanded selection of shade trees into one of our Excel tables you have downloaded, especially the tree’s height at maturity and hardiness zone.

5. Review your expanded list of fast-growing, native shade trees.

First of all, dismiss those trees which fall outside your own hardiness zone (determined from Step 2. (above). Then research each of the remaining candidates for strength of its wood, growth rate, tree height and breadth of canopy size when mature and lastly for its appearance. Both function and form will be important decision-making factors. After all, you will be living with your chosen tree probably for the duration of your stay in your current home.

6. Soil Compatibility

Ensure your soil type is compatible with your preferred choice – use a soil testing kit from your local hardware store to check on levels of nutrients and whether your yard is compromised of sandy, alkaline, acid, clay type soil etc. This will also help you choose the correct tree fertilizer when planting your tree.

7. Compile your shade tree shortlist

From your research and by process of elimination, compile your own shortlist of 2 to 3 tree species that you find attractive and that suits your hardiness zone, planting space and soil type.

8. Explore availability

Take your shortlist to your nearest tree nursery and check the availability of your preferred shade tree seedlings or saplings. Check their condition and modify your final choice accordingly. Purchase with the right fertilizer, organic matter and planting tools (see checklist in point 10. below).

9. Map out utility lines and drains

In anticipation for planting your young tree, map out where utility lines lie e.g. where drains, underground and over-ground power cables, gas pipes, water pipes and telephone/data cables lie in your yard. We obviously need to avoid these when planting your new tree.

10. Planting tools checklist

Check you have the following available prior to tree planting:

Now simply await our next Tree Care Diary for planting advice. This will guide you on how to plant your carefully chosen shade tree seedling or sapling. We’ll publish it early so you can catch the last two weeks of September part of this Fall’s tree planting window.

Diary ‘Health Warning’: The accuracy of this calendar and timings shared within it cannot be guaranteed. States in the USA are at different latitudes, longitudes and have varying elevations. This makes the general advice we give hard to fit all states the same. Compounding these differences are the typical tree species sets between states. Furthermore, each state has its own weather patterns and levels of rainfall. All the calendar can do is broadly summarize best practice care for your trees. We therefore suggest that you consult your local arborist for more specific insights and advice relevant for your particular location.

Too hot? Plan now for shade trees in your yard

Who is this tree care advice for?

Our monthly Diary is created for individuals and business property owners in USA who may have one or more trees on their land. Mature trees can add around 10% to the value of your property say the USDA Forest Service; BUT only if they are kept in good condition, say Moneysense. It’s easy to see that a little love and attention from time to time will benefit both your trees and your property’s appraised value.

If you have any questions about any of the advice offered here, please seek the advice of your local arborist. Call us at Tree Top Pros to talk to one in your city.

Planning for shade trees in early August

In most states, August is the hottest month of the year. So it’s a great time to explore exactly where in your garden you should plant a new shade tree or two. Well-placed shade trees near your property can save you between 10% and 40% in summer air-conditioning cooling bills according to a recent report from the Arbor Day Foundation. This range of savings is dependent on the positioning and number of shade trees planted.

In August the sun is strongest between 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. This is when you need the shade the most. To prepare for planting a shade tree sapling, it’s best to track the shadow thrown by the sun during these hours and a little before and after. On a clear day in early August, use a tall cane or straight stick to determine the direction of shade every hour between, say, 12 noon and 4 p.m. From the shadow made by the stick at different times of the afternoon, you can choose a planting position that will give you the maximum shade for your home and yard when the sun is at its strongest.

If you don’t have the time to do this, the best positions are usually two shade trees to the South of your property and one to the West.

Now August is rarely the best time of year to actually plant a young tree so you’re just at the beginning of the process. But at least you are now able to fix your ideal planting site/s. Be sure to avoid drainage lines, pipes which a large tree’s roots can easily invade and damage. And steer clear of your home’s foundations too by not placing the tree too close to your home.

We’ll cover best practices for planting trees in our next Tree Care Diary post (September). Generally, September and October are the best months to plant trees i.e. when the hottest days of summer are behind us and yet when the ground is still relatively warm.

Remember that a large shade tree can actively cool the surrounding air as a result of the evaporation of water from its leaves during transpiration. NC State University’s Department of Horticultural Research confirm that just one tree can have the same cooling effect as up to 10 single room air conditioning units working 20 hrs out of 24. Hard to believe but here is their link to prove it: https://projects.ncsu.edu/project/treesofstrength/benefits.htm 

So if you have the space, plan to plant more than one shade tree for an extra outdoor cooling effect.

Watering your trees

OK, it’s August but that doesn’t automatically mean you need to drain the local reservoir watering your trees. Large, mature trees are unlikely to need watering unless there’s a severe drought. Most will have deep roots that can reach moisture in the ground far below the surface.

Over-watering every tree is a commonly-seen mistake. Soil that is saturated with water will not allow adequate oxygen to reach the soil and roots. The organisms in the soil that make it fertile drown with too much water and the tree’s roots die back. Moist (rather than soaked) is better because it will still allow sufficient oxygen for both the soil and roots to thrive. Signs of over-watering include leaves drooping down and turning dark brown or black and even defoliation.

Instead, focus your attention and hosepipe on newly planted or young trees less than two years old. For these, keep your soil moist, not soggy. Usually 30 seconds of water for each tree delivered from a hose with a diffuser attachment is enough. The reach of a tree’s branches reflect the size of its root system. So when watering, don’t just soak the bottom of the trunk.

No matter how old or large your tree, look for signs of lack of water.  If your tree’s leaves are curling upwards or inwards and starting to turn brown this month, then the soil surrounding its roots is too dry.

Tidy up your tree mulch

The loose material in the mulch can easily be scattered by birds and small mammals looking for bugs and grubs lurking underneath. As your mulch will slow the rate of evaporation around the tree and keep the soil cooler in the hotter times of the day. So tidy up any mulching that you established earlier in the year – see our March Diary entry ‘March is for mulching’ for more details. Keep the mulch circle out to the drip line of the tree, keep it away from the root flare (that’s the base of the trunk at ground) and keep at no more than 3 inches deep. Remember, no volcano-mulching around the trunk!

Fertilizing your trees

It’s unwise to fertilize trees now apart from one or two exceptions mentioned below. Applying fertilizer will result in late season growth. This is unlikely to harden off in time and may not go dormant in winter. Frost will probably kill this new growth which may, in turn, cause long-term damage to the health of your tree.

Continue to monitor your palm trees this month. The upper fronds should all be a glossy green. If these appear to be yellowing prematurely then consider a slow-release fertilizer containing Potassium and Magnesium. See our Summer Care for Palm Trees Diary entry.

August is the time for the third (of four) applications of fertilizer for citrus trees in the year. (Feb, May, Aug and Oct).

Tree Pest watch

Inspect your plants for disease or infestations. Trees that are dry and stressed in the summer heat can be more prone to molds, diseases, pests and fungi. Check your trees for signs of discolored leaves and holes. Remove any infected leaves or branches to reduce the problem for next year. Before you do, make notes and keep track of when pest problems occur throughout the year, so you can better prepare and prevent them in the future.

Tree Pruning in August

Man, its hot. So put the shears and pruning saws away this month. You could in theory remove water sprouts, dead branches, crossing branches and suckers; these are all non-season dependent. However, this can easily wait until a slightly cooler month, in our view.

For the majority of trees, it’s too already late to do any ‘shaping’ or cosmetic pruning. Bear in mind that pruning actually encourages new growth. Any late growth spurred on by late pruning is prone to damage later on in the year during less clement weather and during frosts.

Kindly Note: The accuracy of this calendar and timings shared within it cannot be guaranteed. States in the USA are at different latitudes, longitudes and have varying elevations. This makes the general advice we give hard to fit all states the same. Compounding these differences are the typical tree species sets between states. Furthermore, each state has its own weather patterns and levels of rainfall. All the calendar can do is broadly summarize best practice care for your trees. We therefore suggest that you consult your local arborist for more specific insights and advice relevant for your particular location.

Tree Pruning in the Summer

We think Summer is the time to enjoy your garden and relax after all your hard work earlier in the year. However, problems with trees do arise at any time. So we have provided some basic summer pruning advice to keep your trees in great shape. We even dispel a myth or too based on latest research on the subject.

Who is this tree care advice for?

As always, our Tree care Diary is written for private individuals or business property owners who may own one or more trees in their back yard/ plot. It is not meant for commercial orchard or forestry owners. Nevertheless, we do refer to some recent horticultural research to debunk a few summer pruning myths.

Despite the care and work that goes into our Tree Care Diary, if you’re not sure of any point we make, then you can seek the advice of your local arborist. You can call Tree Top Pros to speak to one in your city in Florida.

The purpose of summer pruning

The scope and purpose of pruning trees in the summer is discussed in our preliminary article entitled June Tree Care Diary – Part 1 from Tree Top Pros. In essence, all that is required is a “light touch” in most if not all instances. Major structural pruning should be reserved for the winter months when trees are dormant UNLESS you see dead wood. Diseased, damaged or brittle dry branches without foliage must always be removed as soon as they are seen. As such, dead wood is exempt from any seasonal trimming rules.

In general, there are just six reasons why you prune in the summer:

1. Removing damaged or dead branches
2. Removing crossing branches
3. Removing low-hanging branches that are a danger to children, for example.
4. Remove water-sprouts from near the base of fruit trees
5. OPTIONAL – Thin the fruit tree canopy to improve the color of red fruit
6. OPTIONAL – Reduce biennial fruiting pattern in fruit trees

This month, July, we share how you can conduct your summer pruning on two groups of trees; deciduous trees and fruit trees.

Summer pruning of deciduous trees

In general, trimming a large deciduous tree in the summer is to be discouraged. The summer is a time for strong growth in all elements of the tree. Lopping off a limb will stimulate the tree to produce more growth as it seeks quickly to replace part of its food factory. The trouble is that growth will result in a lot of new but weak, fleshy branches. That is why we advocate such trees only be trimmed in the wintertime when the tree is naturally dormant. There are some exceptions to this rule, however:

1. Dead branch removal – Sounds obvious but a tree branch denuded of all foliage in the summer indicates a dead wood. In winter, it is sometimes difficult to tell the difference between a dead branch and a dormant one because they are both without leaves. However, in summer the difference is clearer. It’s worth spending a few moments looking at your tree in all seasons to see what needs correcting.It’s also worth exploring the underlying problem causing the dead wood e.g. lightning strike, volcano mulching, pest infestation etc. In this way, your tree could also benefit from carefully targeted removal of any fruits or branches affected by pests like aphids, caterpillars and codling moths, for example. Diseased fruit and branches should not be composted but burnt where permitted or removed to a municipal disposal facility.
2. Removal of crossing branches – When looking at a 3 dimensional structure such as a tree in full leaf it is sometimes difficult to see any branches let alone those which are crossing. However, if you take a closer look, try to identify those main branches which are not merely crossing but those which are crossing and touching or growing close to one another. Prioritize those which are touching as the bark will be damaged which is an open invitation for disease and structural weakness. If the smaller branch can be thinned with a clean cut and it is within arm’s reach then proceed. If not, consider asking a professional to help you but do not use a ladder as they’re inherently unsafe when cutting trees.
3. Removal of low-hanging branches – Check for branches that are at head level for any small children enjoying your garden in the summer. Consider removing them for their safety, to avoid eye or head injuries, for example.

Summer Pruning of fruit trees

Caveat – this advice applies only to mature fruit trees. Pruning patterns for newly planted nursery trees are different and species-specific. We shall address planting and pruning care for new fruit trees this in another post.

The first 3 reasons for summer pruning i.e. the removal of dead, crossing or child-unfriendly branches described above also apply to fruit trees even though extra caution is advised lest the fruit harvest is reduced. These next three points are specific to trimming your fruit trees in the summer, two of which are optional in our view:
 

4. Remove water-sprouts from near the base of fruit trees – Water sprouts or water shoots usually emanate from the bottom of the trunk and can sometimes arise following a particularly vigorous winter prune. They draw a lot of resources from a fruit tree and can be safely removed entirely unless you want one of them to replace a damaged main leader. They can be removed any time you spot them so there’s no need to wait for July if you see them earlier.
5. OPTIONAL – Thin the fruit tree canopy. Summer ‘pinching’ of tender new branches is advocated by some to remove excess shoot growth and to increase light penetration in your fruit tree and to encourage the formation of flower buds on this year’s new growth. Supposedly, this also enhances the colour of red fruit in apple trees and peach trees. However, the benefits are marginal as described in this research article on the topic by a professor of horticulture at Pennsylvania State University: https://extension.psu.edu/fruit-tree-pruning-summer-pruning-cautions  Here, the experts tell us that the benefits of summer ‘pinching’ and thinning the canopy are marginal at best. So we say “why bother!”. Why create extra work for yourself for no tangible benefit. We suggest that you sit back and relax in your garden instead. Limit your summer pruning of your fruit trees only to the corrective type activities we describe and then only if needed.
6. OPTIONAL – Reduce biennial fruiting patterns. We’ll cover this in a separate post as it needs careful explanation and this article is already quite expansive.

Summer pruning of palm trees

This was covered in detail last month; accessible here for ease of reference.

3 easily-avoided summer pruning mistakes

1. Avoid an untidy, splintered cut when removing large branches – It’s easy to create a fractured stub when trimming a large branch under the first 3 reasons for summer pruning. To reduce damaging the tree and reduce incidence of further disease caused by unclean cuts, do this instead. Remove a wedge shape beneath the limb about half a foot away from where the branch grows out from the trunk. Then, four or five inches further out, saw vertically from top to bottom right through the branch. Any splintering will be halted by the previous wedge cut. What remains is a stub which can be removed by cutting parallel to the branch collar.

2. Avoid pruning when rain is forecasted. Rain can cause fungal fruiting bodies to release spores that could lodge in freshly cut wood. It’s best to wait until predictably dryer weather.

3. Avoid drastic trimming in summer. Never be too aggressive when trimming a fruit tree in summer as any leafy branches which are removed represents a dent in their food-producing capability. By heavy pruning, you will reduce the tree’s rate of photosynthesis which produces sugars for it to grow and bear fruit. In doubt, leave well alone and resume structural pruning in the winter months which is a dormant time for all fruit trees. Or call the experts for help.

Kindly Note: The accuracy of this calendar and timings shared within it cannot be guaranteed. States in the USA are at different latitudes, longitudes and have varying elevations. This makes the general advice we give hard to fit all states the same. Compounding these differences are the typical tree species sets between states. Furthermore, each state has its own weather patterns and levels of rainfall. All the calendar can do is broadly summarize best practice care for your trees. We therefore suggest that you consult your local arborist for more specific insights and advice relevant for your particular location.

Palm Trees thrive in the heat of summer. They do most of their growing between the months of May and August. However, these months also coincide with the Hurricane season in Florida and nearby states. So if you have a little time to attend to attend to your palms then summer is the time to do it. This article covers feeding and watering your palms in the summer along with pest control and trimming your palms for good measure.

For palm trees to grow, they need both nutrients and water in sufficient quantities.

Feeding your palm trees

The beginning of summer is a great time to start fertilizing your mature palm trees. Any application should be preceded by a simple DIY soil analysis test. This will reduce the amount of fertilizer needed in most cases and minimize run-off to waterways and also to avoid damaging your tree. Choose a soil analysis kit that tests specifically for Manganese, Magnesium, Potassium and Nitrogen as your palm will need these elements in adequate amounts to remain healthy in the summer growing season. If you see yellowing occurring at the tips of the upper green fronds, it could mean your palm is deficient in these nutrients.

The instructions on proprietary bags of palm tree fertilizer should be followed closely. Specifically, do not apply any fertilizer close to the base of the palm tree lest this burns the trunk or damages the fragile root system. Instead start applying in a wide circle starting at least 18 inches away from the base of your palm tree out towards the drip line. The drip line is the virtual diameter formed by the outer fronds of your palm projected downward to ground.

We recommend that you avoid fertilizing newly planted palms for the first 4 months in all cases.

Watering your palm trees

Just because palm trees like heat does not mean they like it dry too. In arid climates they need a source of water such as a nearby river, underground stream, an oasis or …you as an irrigator!

For palms which are fully grown, the amount of watering will depend on the climate and rainfall frequency. In many areas, water no more than two times during the summer months. If the ground is already moist after heavy rainfall, watering is not required, of-course.

For newly planted palms, more frequent watering will be required up to twice a week. Ensure that moisture is penetrating down to a depth of two feet.

Do not over-water either. You may need to add sand to your soil to improve drainage.

Checking your palm tree for pests

There are more than 2500 types of palm tree in the world and nearly all of them can and have been grown in Florida and other southern states of USA. Many palm species have pests which are unique to each type. So to list them all here would be an exercise in futility. Besides, signs of pest infection are often in and amongst the palm fronds and growing tip which are hard to reach.

Our advice is that if after you have watered and fed your tree as outlined above and your fronds are still discolored where they should be green, then call us. We’ll examine each tree for signs of infection or invasion and recommend a suitable course of treatment if the tree can be saved.

Trimming your palm tree

Now its June, the advent of the hurricane season is upon us in the southern states. you may have seen palm trees which have been trimmed very severely. The owners believe, mistakenly in our view, that a drastic trim will reduce the tree’s wind resistance and result in less damage from stormy weather. You may know the ‘pineapple on stilts’ look well with just a small tuft of green fronds remaining on the palm tree.

What is less well known is that these so called “hurricane cuts” are completely unnecessary, solve nothing and are detrimental to the health of the palm.  

There is anecdotal evidence that it was the severely trimmed palm trees were damaged the most during Hurricane Wilma in 2005. And this article explains how an over-pruned palm can suffer more damage in hurricanes, not less.
https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2014/01/29/palm-trees-florida-extreme-pruning-peril/5010539/  

It’s our firm view that the vigor and health of palm trees is heavily dependent on a full set of fronds even if yellowing a little.

The science says that over-pruning palms removes access to a reservoir of nutrients like potassium and magnesium. These essential elements are necessary for the palm to thrive and stay green. The more fronds that are cut, the more your tree will attempt to absorb the lost magnesium and potassium from a reduced number of fronds. This causes further browning in a vicious cycle that will ultimately cause the death of your palm.

Excessive removal of green fronds and also the removal of live, lower fronds of a palm tree is not an acceptable pruning practice according to the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA).

As a result of the over-exuberant palm tree trimmers in our industry, more city and county authorities are mandating that the pruning of all trees, including palms, follow the American National Standard as set out in ANSI A300 (Part 1)-2017 Pruning. Tree Top Pros supports these standards some of which are outlined here by way of example:

1. Damaged or dead fronds can be removed for reasons of reducing risk or improving aesthetics.
2. Healthy fronds are green and can also be yellowing; these are live fronds and should not be removed other than to provide clearance.
3. Yellowing fronds that are not diseased should not be removed except for safety reasons.
4. Diseased fronds can be either treated or removed to reduce the spread of pests.
5. Tree workers should not use climbing spurs on their boots to climb live palms

In practice, these are guidelines for tree workers as pruning mature palm trees at height is dangerous. As you may be considering employing tree companies to do the work for you, some knowledge of latest best practice in this area could be useful to you and for the health and longevity of your palm trees.

So when trimming palm trees, remember that less is definitely more! And that any trimming that you do commission does not have to be season-dependent.

Kindly Note: The accuracy of this calendar and timings shared within it cannot be guaranteed. States in the USA are at different latitudes, longitudes and have varying elevations. This makes the general advice we give hard to fit all states the same. Compounding these differences are the typical tree species sets between states. Furthermore, each state has its own weather patterns and levels of rainfall. All the calendar can do is broadly summarize best practice care for your trees. We therefore suggest that you consult your local arborist for more specific insights and advice relevant for your particular location.

 
Our Top 10 Do’s and Don’ts for looking after your trees in June

Do’s

1. Do keep a watchful eye on pests and diseases. Warmer temperatures in June can help insect populations mushroom rapidly so check your trees regularly to prevent any infestations and the damage they cause from getting out of control. Continue prophylactic spraying to help prevent the appearance of leaf diseases. Choose natural, organic sprays wherever possible to avoid harming beneficial insect species such as honey bees. The image above illustrates what pear rust looks like on a pear tree leaf.
2. Do consider planting palm trees in June, if you live in Florida and other Southern States in the sub-tropical belt. The warmth of June coupled with seasonal rain can create ideal growing conditions. When planting, avoid piling soil up against the palm trunk. Your city or county municipality will often have a recommend list of palm tree species from which to choose.
3. Do arrange for for the delivery of injections for both Dutch Elm Disease and the Emerald Ash Borer Beetle. Obviously, you’ll need some Elm Trees or Ash trees in your yard to take advantage of this advice.
4. Do water your tree if a dry spell emerges. One good weekly soak to reach the roots is better than an ineffective sprinkling every day.
5. Do check to see if your tree mulch layer is still around two inches thick. You may have already mulched your trees as we suggested in our March Tree Care Diary (click here). However, it can get kicked away by kids (or by grown-ups!) running around your yard and, if not, scattered by visiting birds yard looking a juicy worm or two. Mulching of trees is a double-edged sword. Beware that mound-mulching (a.k.a. volcano mulching) of trees where the mulch is built up the trunk can and does cause the premature death of many trees in USA. Moisture caused by over-exuberant mulching needs to be kept away from the immediate base of the tree, especially away from where the bottom of the trunk flares out into the roots below. The dangers of improper mulching are more eloquently expressed here:  https://www.gardensalive.com/product/2241 .In the photo below of a mulched tree base there appear to be two problems. The first is that mulch is piling up against the trunk and the tree root flare is clearly not exposed. Secondly, from the shadow cast by the tree’s canopy, the mulching area is not big enough to encourage healthy lateral root growth. If left like this, I predict the early demise of this tree.
   
6. Do consider an Inspection of your trees by a trained tree professional. They can recommend various treatments to remedy any problems which may ordinarily be difficult to see and treat. They can also provide you with a bespoke watering regimen for your particular set of trees along with appropriate tree care that you can do yourself.
7. Do watch out for signs of stress in your trees. June can bring stress for young trees and old trees alike in the form of unwelcome and sudden storms and the first hot days of the year. For young trees, watch out for the first sign of leaves wilting or turning a yellowy shade of green. For older trees, consider cabling as an option to secure any hazardous parts of the tree, especially if there are buildings around the base onto which they might fall in squally weather. Tree trimming such trees to reduce their resistance to wind and therefore lower their risk of falling is an option but not ideal at this time of the year when it is in full leaf.

   Don’ts

8. Don’t apply weed killer meant for lawns to the area of grass defined by the outer drip line of the tree. Make sure you avoid areas underneath trees as the chemicals tend to adversely affect the tree’s root system and hence affect the health of your tree.
9. Don’t damage the trunks of your trees with mowing equipment. We mentioned this in May but it’s worth repeating – avoid damaging the trunk of your trees with your lawn mower.
10. Don’t harm your palm trees by allowing over-zealous trimming of palm fronds. So called “hurricane cuts” are not necessary and weaken the palm tree in the face of summer storm season as we explain here. 

Check out Part 1 of our June Tree Care Diary – Prelude to Summer Pruning here

Kindly Note: The accuracy of this calendar and timings shared within it cannot be guaranteed. States in the USA are at different latitudes, longitudes and have varying elevations. This makes the general advice we give hard to fit all states the same. Compounding these differences are the typical tree species sets between states. Furthermore, each state has its own weather patterns and levels of rainfall. All the calendar can do is broadly summarize best practice care for your trees. We therefore suggest that you consult your local arborist for more specific insights and advice relevant for your particular location.